Penang’s famous ais kacang outlet to close shop

Four-generation family business Swatow Lane Ais Kacang to go on a 'long break' for the first time in 94 years, as search starts for a new premise.

GEORGE TOWN: Penang’s famous Swatow Lane Ais Kacang will close shop at the end of this month after opening daily for almost a hundred years.

The familiar family-run business will stop operating at the New World Park food court after having been there for about 15 years.

Prior to that, the business had operated at a curbside hawker stall along the adjacent Swatow Lane since 1923.

Shop operator Lee Eng Lai, 67, said they are calling it quits for now as they cannot afford the increased rental and other conditions imposed by the mall’s management.

He said they have “nowhere to go” after this and may even close for good. Their last day at New World Park is on April 30.

Lee runs the stall with his brother Eng Huat, 61. Their sisters Ah Kee and Ah Guat are no longer involved in the business.

The siblings took over from their late father Lee Soo Khan in 1963, when they all resided at Dindings Road nearby.

In 1950, Soo Khan had in turn taken over from his father, Kar Tee, who migrated from China and started selling “ang tau sng” (Hokkien for “iced red beans”) on a pushcart at Swatow Lane in 1923.

Lee said it is fortunate that his sons, Wah Onn, 34, and Wah Chai, 30, have helped out.

“It’s hard to find young people to continue a business like this. We are lucky.”

Legendary ais kacang

Their ais kacang is a delicious treat and part of Penang’s rich heritage.

It is a bowl of shaved ice with rose syrup, gula melaka (palm sugar) syrup, topped off with attap chee (young palm seeds), sweet corn, red kidney beans, and grass jelly.

Extra fruits such as chokanan mangoes, papayas or bananas are optional. However, many patrons insist on having them included, at extra cost.

Years ago, the red kidney beans were slowly roasted over a charcoal fire, which gave the ais kacang its unique flavour.

More recently, Lee boiled them over gas fire after charcoal became tedious at his age, Lee said.

“During my grandfather’s time, it was only ‘setengah sen’ (half sen) for a bowl of ais kacang.

“We have been very reasonable with our portions and prices. When we moved to this mall, we charged only RM2 a bowl,” he added.

Today, a bowl of Swatow Lane ais kacang varies between RM3.50 and RM5.50, depending on size of the bowl and extras.

The family have been going places with their ice kacang.

They often travelled to Singapore since the early 1990s to be part of the Penang Hawkers’ Buffet at the York Hotel.

The brothers were also part of then Penang Chief Minister Lim Chong Eu’s entourage to Adelaide, Australia, to serve ais kacang there in 1975.

After closing shop, where next?

Lee said moving back to the roadside along Swatow Lane, where they first began would be the best bet for now.

However, it would be illegal as the Penang Island City Council (MBPP) are no longer issuing licences for roadside traders.

“We always had a roadside licence. But after 2007 we never renewed it. So that licence is as good as gone,” he said.

Lee said sales have waned compared to the good old days. At the height of the business they used to make over 400 bowls of ais kacang in a day in 2007.

“But today, we make less than 200 bowls. Times are bad,” he said, hoping that the landlord would be agreeable to more reasonable terms that will let them stay on for another five years or so.